Need some pointers on my setup and technique

[Rfm]

So I’ve recently taken up shaving again after about a 12 year absence. Previously I only ever used a Mach 3 with Gillette gel and never had any issues. Now I’m my 30’s I’ve been wanting a cleaner look and enjoy the ritual of shaving. To get back into it I’ve gone from disposables and shaving gel, to a more premium Gillette Sensitive razor and I’ve been experiencing ingrown hairs where I never did before. I’ve never had any irritation or ingrown hairs before, and it’s been really frustrating trying to get back to comfortable and clean shaves.

After doing lots of research I decided to move to DE in the hopes that single blade would help. I bought a Merkur Progress after some research (in the hopes that I could temper the learning curve with the lower settings), and because I live in Asia I got some feather blades at a very good price (though I now realize this may have been a mistake).

My routine is as follows:

- Exfoliate with a rubber exfoliating pad with bristles.

- Shower and wash face with salicylic acid face wash.

- Wait for hair to soften.

- After the shower I lather up with some Gillette gel (I haven’t progressed to brush and puck yet because I’m trying to on-ramp to this whole process piece-by-piece).

- Then I do a first pass with a new blade at setting 1, and a second pass at 1.5. Both are WTG. I use cold water for rinsing. I follow the map of my hair.

- After finishing, I do a cold water splash and pat dry.

- After that I use a witch hazel toner with some other soothing products in it.

- Light moisturizer.

I’m still getting ingrown hairs and some irritation and wondering a few things - was I a bit ambitious with a feather blade, and should I just dive in with a brush and soap? I think the gel isn’t providing enough of a protective barrier.

I’m a newbie, so any tips would be appreciated. Here to learn.

 

[lasta]

Hi there！

Looks like you are starting off on the right track. Kudos for paying attention to pre-shave hydration, too many people overlook this very important part!

I don't think the lubricant is your problem, if anything, canned products are more protective than brush lather.

I also insist on a lavish pre-shave ritual ritual and use SA based cleansers, but maybe you are over-exfoliating (which itself can cause irritation).

I'd skip the bristle rub and re-allocate the extra time to more pre-shaving softening instead.

Feather is fine (IMO), but blades are YMMV...

 

[T Bone]

I’m still getting ingrown hairs and some irritation and wondering a few things - was I a bit ambitious with a feather blade, and should I just dive in with a brush and soap? I think the gel isn’t providing enough of a protective barrier.

Welcome! I’m going to disagree with lasta on this, but a lot of this is YMMV.

IMO, you have the right idea here. Feather blades are great and about the sharpest available, but I found them difficult to use as a newbie. I’d suggest getting a sampler pack and trying several to see what works best for you. Also, canned gel worked fine for me with cartridges, but I didn’t find it slick or protective enough at all with a DE. I think you’ll get better results with a brush and soap. They don’t have to be expensive, a synthetic brush and a stick of Arko for example will get you started well on the cheap. Or if you want to on-ramp yourself to the process, a brushless cream like Cremo or Jack Black are also very slick. Good luck!

 

[BigJ]

Welcome aboard!

Some great advice above!

I agree with the suggestion that you order a blade sampler (or two). For me Feather blades are as sharp as it gets, but they are very unforgiving of any lapse in technique. Definitely not my first choice for beginners!

I also suggest you read through the WiKi and focus on technique, especially
#1. NO pressure, and
#2. Maintaining an optimal razor angle

Recognize that ‘traditional’ wet shaving is a skill that requires a bit of time and effort to acquire!

 

[blethenstrom]

Welcome to B&B!

Some great advise given above. I can echo the soap and brush. Yes does not have to be expensive. Arko and a synthetic brush would get you very far.

I would also recommend starting out with a different blade. You mentioned that you lived in Asia. Not sure what you have available, but if you could get let's say Dorco Primes or Dorco Titans that might be a better choice for the time being. I think starting on a setting of 1 is good and just light light pressure. Not like shaving with a cartridge where you apply pressure. No pressure. You are on the right track and with some practice you will be up and running in no time.

 

[NickCutlip]

Welcome to the forum !!

 

[Quaznoid]

Ditch the Feathers. Too sharp and unforgiving of sub-optimal technique. With a more forgiving blade (I like the Lord family) try moving that Progress up to at least 3 or 4 and concentrate on maintaining a good angle. Every razor is different in that regard; listen for a good zing. You’ll know when it’s cutting well.
IMHO, you may be worrying too much about face prep. Just wet your face, slap on some slick lather and get on w it.

 

[Tirvine]

Another welcome here! As you quickly noticed, our advice comes from a lot of different perspectives. Most of us have established routines we have used so long that we are convinced they are ideal and have long forgotten our newbie nicks, rashes, and exasperation. On the subject of cold water or hot, I have always been a hot water guy because I find it more pleasant than a cold slap in the face. So, I slap hot water on my face and lather with soap and brush. I like a fairly wet lather, just soapy enough to stay on my face, no whipped cream to photograph. The action of face lathering is actually a gentle but effective way to exfoliate. I use three passes with only one setting and, as much as possible, very little pressure. I like sharp blades in a mild razor, mild enough that I can shave on autopilot without fear of nicks. Then I shower and splash on aftershave. My blades are Personna Lab Blues. I find Gillette Super Blues and Nacets as well as the Personna blades made in Germany and Astras to be pretty similar to the Lab Blues. Whatever you settle on, do not undervalue repetition to hone your technique.

 

[JKaboom]

Like others I would say set aside the feathers for a bit. I waited 6 months before trying one. I would suggest a sampler as well like others. Try to find one with Astra Superior Platinum and Gillette silver blues. Try a Gilette silver blue first if you can.

I would definitely put down the shave gel in favor of a shave stick like Arko and an inexpensive synthetic brush. My inexpensive synthetic is a Parker, I think it was $35. There are many great options for even less.

When you said you did your first pass at 1 then the second pass 1.5. That's the reverse of what you want to do. Start on the higher setting then the lower. On a Progress I'd suggest 2 then 1 or 1.5. The other poster said try 3 or 4 and though that is more aggressive, that may suit you better. I use 3 then 2 on my progress.

Welcome and good luck! There's a lot of great advice and help here.

 

[SamplingNature]

My slow decent into madness...er...entry into traditional wet shaving started with soap and a brush. I got better shaves with my Mach 3 with the cheap boar brush and VDH soap than I ever did using canned stuff. That actually went on for a while before I started with a DE. So take this as a vote to get a brush and soap.

Definitely get a sample pack of blades. That's probably the cheapest of several equipment variations.

I also noticed that you're doing a WTG pass at the lowest setting, then doing another WTG with a higher setting. Don't do that. Leave it at the lowest setting. Do one with the grain pass, followed with an across the grain pass. See if that doesn't help.

The salytic acid wash immediately before the shave may also be hindering you, as may the rubber scrub pad. Drop those from your routine for a week or so, and see if that helps.

Focus on moisturizing the beard. Wash it good with hot water in the shower. Consider a hot towel over lather (soap, not canned goo) for a few minutes after your shower.

 

[Rfm]

Welcome! I’m going to disagree with lasta on this, but a lot of this is YMMV.

IMO, you have the right idea here. Feather blades are great and about the sharpest available, but I found them difficult to use as a newbie. I’d suggest getting a sampler pack and trying several to see what works best for you. Also, canned gel worked fine for me with cartridges, but I didn’t find it slick or protective enough at all with a DE. I think you’ll get better results with a brush and soap. They don’t have to be expensive, a synthetic brush and a stick of Arko for example will get you started well on the cheap. Or if you want to on-ramp yourself to the process, a brushless cream like Cremo or Jack Black are also very slick. Good luck!

Thanks! This is great advice. Will look for a reasonable brush.

 

[Rfm]

My slow decent into madness...er...entry into traditional wet shaving started with soap and a brush. I got better shaves with my Mach 3 with the cheap boar brush and VDH soap than I ever did using canned stuff. That actually went on for a while before I started with a DE. So take this as a vote to get a brush and soap.

Definitely get a sample pack of blades. That's probably the cheapest of several equipment variations.

I also noticed that you're doing a WTG pass at the lowest setting, then doing another WTG with a higher setting. Don't do that. Leave it at the lowest setting. Do one with the grain pass, followed with an across the grain pass. See if that doesn't help.

The salytic acid wash immediately before the shave may also be hindering you, as may the rubber scrub pad. Drop those from your routine for a week or so, and see if that helps.

Focus on moisturizing the beard. Wash it good with hot water in the shower. Consider a hot towel over lather (soap, not canned goo) for a few minutes after your shower.

Thanks for the advice! Just a question - won’t across the grain increase the chance of ingrown hairs?

 

[Rfm]

Like others I would say set aside the feathers for a bit. I waited 6 months before trying one. I would suggest a sampler as well like others. Try to find one with Astra Superior Platinum and Gillette silver blues. Try a Gilette silver blue first if you can.

I would definitely put down the shave gel in favor of a shave stick like Arko and an inexpensive synthetic brush. My inexpensive synthetic is a Parker, I think it was $35. There are many great options for even less.

When you said you did your first pass at 1 then the second pass 1.5. That's the reverse of what you want to do. Start on the higher setting then the lower. On a Progress I'd suggest 2 then 1 or 1.5. The other poster said try 3 or 4 and though that is more aggressive, that may suit you better. I use 3 then 2 on my progress.

Welcome and good luck! There's a lot of great advice and help here.

Thanks for the advice, will report back!

 

[Rfm]

My slow decent into madness...er...entry into traditional wet shaving started with soap and a brush. I got better shaves with my Mach 3 with the cheap boar brush and VDH soap than I ever did using canned stuff. That actually went on for a while before I started with a DE. So take this as a vote to get a brush and soap.

Definitely get a sample pack of blades. That's probably the cheapest of several equipment variations.

I also noticed that you're doing a WTG pass at the lowest setting, then doing another WTG with a higher setting. Don't do that. Leave it at the lowest setting. Do one with the grain pass, followed with an across the grain pass. See if that doesn't help.

The salytic acid wash immediately before the shave may also be hindering you, as may the rubber scrub pad. Drop those from your routine for a week or so, and see if that helps.

Focus on moisturizing the beard. Wash it good with hot water in the shower. Consider a hot towel over lather (soap, not canned goo) for a few minutes after your shower.

Thanks for the advice. Why would the salycylic acid or the or scrubber pad be a hindrance?

 

[SamplingNature]

Thanks for the advice! Just a question - won’t across the grain increase the chance of ingrown hairs?

I would think it no more likely...and perhaps less likely...than going over the same area in the same direction with a more aggressive blade setting.

Over the years, I've read many posts about people getting better results even by using a cartridge razor with DE methods. I'm guessing that at least part of that is because the DE methods stress mapping the hair patterns and minimizing the overall number of times a blade edge passes over your skin.

I won't speak for anybody else, but for the longest time, I'd use a disposable or cartridge razor...no prep, 2-3 passes in the same direction, and irritation.

I got immediate improvement from the brush/soap. Further improvement when I started with the DE. Now, I have no issues, even when using a cartridge, because I'm still using DE habits of prep, no pressure and multiple passes in different directions.

 

[SamplingNature]

Thanks for the advice. Why would the salycylic acid or the or scrubber pad be a hindrance?

I would imagine that they could be removing moisture and oils that might help protect your skin during the shave. At best, they are variables that are easy to remove from your prep and possibly replace at a different time of day.

 

[Osyri]

My routine is as follows:

- Exfoliate with a rubber exfoliating pad with bristles.

- Shower and wash face with salicylic acid face wash.

- Wait for hair to soften.

- After the shower I lather up with some Gillette gel (I haven’t progressed to brush and puck yet because I’m trying to on-ramp to this whole process piece-by-piece).

- Then I do a first pass with a new blade at setting 1, and a second pass at 1.5. Both are WTG. I use cold water for rinsing. I follow the map of my hair.

- After finishing, I do a cold water splash and pat dry.

- After that I use a witch hazel toner with some other soothing products in it.

- Light moisturizer.

Wow, this sounds almost like me when I first started last month with a DE and Can Gel! Except for the exfoliating and all the face wash.

Shaving soaps or cream and a brush made a big difference for me!

Good Luck and Welcome to B&B!

 

[euro]

Take a super hot shower and use olive oil as a preshave oil. You can use any other oil you like and it will make the shaving much easier and smooth. Feathers are great razors but IMHO not good for a beginner, go with a blade that is more forgiving like the Astra SP.

 

[Dobric]

Sometimes less is more
For me prsonaly, shower and hot water don't work, my skin gets too soft
You can try cold water
Don't shower, splask cold water a couple of times, apply lather and shave, rinse with cold water.
Cold water tightens the skin and reduces ingrown hair
Lather is there to keep the moisture and soften the hair.
Just try it, it doesent cost you anything