Naniwa 400 question

[salazch12]

I'm looking at some Naniwa 400 grit stones and it looks like there are two different kinds. One is a Naniwa Chosera 400 and the other is a Naniwa Super 400. The Super is around $20-$30 less than the other stone on most sites.

For reference I'll post links to the two stones here if it helps.
NANIWA CHOSERA Japanese Super Ceramics Stone SS-400/#400,w/Holder/Dressing Stone | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003V3PLM...9d36-141ea77b50c3&ie=UTF8&qid=1519672176&sr=2


Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the two stones if any?
Thanks.

 

[*stefan*]

The thickness/height differ a lot in this case.
Probably the reason for the huge price gap.

 

[salazch12]

The thickness/height differ a lot in this case.
Probably the reason for the huge price gap.

Do you think it's the same stone, but just with a different thickness? The color is different too, but that could mean nothing if it's the same quality stone.

 

[buca3152]

I had a chosera 400. Gave it away .it glazed and needed constant refreshing with a diamond plate. I love the 600 though. And for the same reasons i feel the 600 cuts faster than the 400. I never used the 400 ss so won't comment.

 

[Bob Vdr]

They're different. The Chosera (now dubbed Professional) is the higher end model. Chosera/Pro stones have a different binder (magnesia instead of resin), density and are overall harder stones.
They'll both get the job done, depends on what you need them for.

 

[salazch12]

They're different. The Chosera (now dubbed Professional) is the higher end model. Chosera/Pro stones have a different binder (magnesia instead of resin), density and are overall harder stones.
They'll both get the job done, depends on what you need them for.

I'm mainly interested in using them to remove a larger amount of metal. I don't want to have to use a diamond stone to remove metal from badly damaged restorations.

 

[*stefan*]

I actually have both in 400#.
Chosera should be soaked (12 min?). If leaving in water for +2h my chosera 2000# get very very soft in surface. However this can be a good thing when lapping but not when honing. Not sure now if the 400# get very soft as well if leaving for to long time soaking, thinks so.
I bought the Naniwa superstone but then red that the chosera are used by some as a spash to go stone also.

Have hardly used the superstone because I suddenly wanted more narrow hone. Besides I use diamond usually for low grit now. Actually do not remember what I thought about the super stone.

The chosera 400# I found on most razor give an edge shaving arm hair. But about 1/4 razors just do not until adding just a few laps on 1000# after. That's really annoying.
The 400# chosera is of course faster than a naniwa 1000# and perform well.

 

[salazch12]

I actually have both in 400#.
Chosera should be soaked. If leaving in water for +2h they get very very soft in surface. However this can be a good thing when lapping but not when honing.
I bought the Naniwa superstone but then red the chosera are used by some as a spash to go stone also.

Have hardly used the superstone because I suddenly wanted more narrow hone. Besides I use diamond usually for low grit now. Actually do not remember what I thought about the super stone.

The chosera 400# I found on most razor give an edge shaving arm hair. But about 1/4 razors just do not until adding just a few laps on 1000# after. That's really annoying.
The 400# chosera is of course faster than a naniwa 1000# and perform well.

How about for knife restoration? I don't like using diamond stones and prefer water stones, but I need something that'll remove lots of steel very fast. I don't like the Norton 220, it practically dissolves when I'm trying to sharpen.

 

[*stefan*]

If you want to remove a loot steel fast on many knifes(not straight razor) some kind of belt grinder.
If wet stones, start with low grit(not for straight razor but kitchen knvifes): 120#, 200-400# 800-1200# 2000-5000#, 8000#, pasted strop or 10000#
If the Norton 220# dissolves the stone has been damaged (drying to fast in sunlight or very dry/cold air?) or you are using way to much pressure.

When starting honing it is easier using synthetic stone as the feedback is easier to read then diamond stone but after a while you find that diamond work as well.

 

[Bob Vdr]

If you need a workhorse stone, I think Chosera makes more sense than SS, being harder and having a slurry stone included (which will improve speed and prevent clogging).
On the other hand, I'd also look at Shapton Pro/Kuromaku 320. The Shaptons are even harder, very consistent and also considerably cheaper than Chosera/Pro Naniwa's

 

[Gamma]

Chosera 400 was my stone of choice for repairs and heavy restorations. It does not neet to be soaked, and I am pretty sure that it should not be soaked. The Pro version is thinner and maybe less prone to crazing like the older stones were, but I'd avoid soaking it anyway.
The 400 super stone is, IMO, a waste of time for that sort of work; it'll grind but it'll load and dish under heavier pressure. It's easy to gouge too.
The 400 cholera/pro is a steel eater, and you can lean on it without worrying about gouging.
No doubt about it, the 400C leaves deep striations on the bevel and into the edge. I found that the trick is to not 'finish' the work on the 400x, but to stop short and then go to a 1k to avoid overshooting the mark. Putting the 600x inbetween the 400 and the 1k helps, but it's an additional cost and the 1k is pretty fast anyway.
Eventually, I sold my 400x C and replaced it with a 220x and 320x Shapton Pro stones.