Mineral oil and razors
- Thread starter Musicman
- Start date
I once posted a similar qustion, I couldn't understand why anyone soaks razors in mineral oil. The responses pretty much were that there was nothing gained by soaking them. The only one thing that mineral oil may do that is even remotely useful is to slow down the tarnishing process on nickel plated razors. So folks who store razors for a long time and want them to look shiny seem to think that a mineral oil coating is a good idea. They either brush the oil on and wipe it off or soak the whole razor and then dry it.
For what it's worth, I've concluded that a mineral oil soak does nothing but gunk up the insides.
That having been said, it seems to be a selling point for sellers of old razors. When I acquire such a razor, I immediately pour boiling water over it and through it to try to get rid of the mineral oil. I also generally soak it in paint thinner to try to get the mineral oil out of the inside of the razor.
For what it's worth, I've concluded that a mineral oil soak does nothing but gunk up the insides.
That having been said, it seems to be a selling point for sellers of old razors. When I acquire such a razor, I immediately pour boiling water over it and through it to try to get rid of the mineral oil. I also generally soak it in paint thinner to try to get the mineral oil out of the inside of the razor.
I have received razors from sellers who do the mineral oil soak. They seem to be fine mechanically . Mineral oil must be a good lubricant. Years ago I read that some pro bicycle racers used mineral oil to lube hubs and crankset bearings because it was so thin it created less resistance. Of course this required more frequent maintenance.
Back to razors, I use a drop or two on threaded or other moving parts but I have yet to come upon a DE that needed the total soak. I am not for it or against it's just my experience so far. I guess if a TTO or adjustable was really grungy and needed to be boiled to get the grunge out a soak would insure total penetration of the lubricant.
I have also read on this forum that mineral oil unlike stronger solvents will not cause any irritation to the skin that might be experienced if a stronger chemical based lubricant were used. Makes sense to me.
Jimmy
Back to razors, I use a drop or two on threaded or other moving parts but I have yet to come upon a DE that needed the total soak. I am not for it or against it's just my experience so far. I guess if a TTO or adjustable was really grungy and needed to be boiled to get the grunge out a soak would insure total penetration of the lubricant.
I have also read on this forum that mineral oil unlike stronger solvents will not cause any irritation to the skin that might be experienced if a stronger chemical based lubricant were used. Makes sense to me.
Jimmy
I have seen razors that have been stored for fifty years with no oil at all - as long as they are kept DRY they should not rust at all - steel needs water to start the oxidisation process back to iron ore (which is all that rust is, really) so keep it dry and it will not rust. 
I couldn't agree more about using mineral oil to ensure total penetration, I'm all for total penetration. But it isn't the penetration of the lubricant that ever concerns me.
Of course the less skin irritation the better as well.
Sorry, but I can't agree with that. High carbon steel razors are very prone to rusting and then corrosion. I live in the desert where the humidity is around ten percent or less in the summer and if I take a straight and leave it out for a month or so untreated it will form a thin coating of rust on it. Unless a straight is being used almost everyday it need some kind of protection. For short term storage just about anything will do but for long term storage you need something thick and that won't evaporate or deteriorate. I like No Rust by A.G Russell its silicon based and once applied will protect forever.I have seen razors that have been stored for fifty years with no oil at all - as long as they are kept DRY they should not rust at all - steel needs water to start the oxidisation process back to iron ore (which is all that rust is, really) so keep it dry and it will not rust.
Safety razors are generally made of brass and plated either with chrome, nickel, and more rarely, silver or gold or some other material. While brass will tarnish, it won't rust. And nickel will tarnish by getting more and more grey in colour.
Straights of course are different.
If the straight has just been rinsed after last use, and dried well, there may be a scarcely visible residue from the superfatted shaving soap that will protect it for years- and people obviously werent so fussy in the past about cleaning their razors (think how many you've seen in junk shops that still have caked on lather and whiskers!), so maybe this explains why so many have been left in a damp attic for years, and only corroded around the shank and tang?
Of course, it is always nice when you get one that's been wiped over with grease to protect it, seen taht a few times. Some folks know how to treat a good tool before they put it away for a long time.
Of course, it is always nice when you get one that's been wiped over with grease to protect it, seen taht a few times. Some folks know how to treat a good tool before they put it away for a long time.
