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Chip or ding in new razor

To be honest, he could have done a better job honing that razor. From type of strokes, amount of work at each stage and so on, a lot of things could have been done differently. When your edge after a "full progression" looks pretty rough (unfortunately, image quality is crap), then you can't ask much from that edge. After a second "progression" and a shave, he mentioned the edge was better than the first time.

I am surprised Boker took it back though.

After 1st progression, before shaving:
View attachment 1752984View attachment 1752982
View attachment 1752985
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After 2nd progression, before shaving:
View attachment 1752987
I agree. I only saw his last video where he summed up his experience.
I have the exact same type of razor. I had to hone it a few times, but that was probably just because I was too gentle the first time I honed it. I have never had a Böker razor that had issues with the steel.
 
I agree. I only saw his last video where he summed up his experience.
I have the exact same type of razor. I had to hone it a few times, but that was probably just because I was too gentle the first time I honed it. I have never had a Böker razor that had issues with the steel.
I have like what, 10 new Bökers? I honestly don't know. One of them is exactly the same model as the one as in that video. Never had issues with them, but then I also don't expect any razor to be shave ready, whoever the maker is. Bökers, I think only one or two shaved, although I wouldn't say it was a great factory edge. Last 4 TIs, 3 were definitely sharp but had that uncomfortable high grit synth feel. Last two Koraats I received from Ulrik were tuggy, so I had to hone them right away. Out of 5 Rigas, I think these were by far the most consistent and still, one of them I had to rehone so it can shave. Ralf Aust sent me a razor which I thought it did not even have a bevel, would only wipe the lather away but cutting absolutely nothing after 10 passes in that area.

Now, when I get a razor, most likely I will do a proper bevel set and make sure I remove any sign of the original bevel, before moving up to the next stone (or slurry, or whatever). I take my time if it's necessary (steel stone combo, smiling edge, warps, etc). I am not afraid to remove a few micrometers of steel. I have more steel than I can hone in my lifetime (and I am only 30 yo). It is unlikely that my future children will shave with these razors after I am gone, so removing a few μm to get to some good steel does not ruin a razor. Heck, I still have brand new razors from last year and didn't even have the chance to try them yet.

Doing 20 laps on a diluted Tenjyou slurry won't remove previous grit scratches, especially when the whole edge didn't even touch the stone. One of the test razors I have on the bench for the last ~2 months or so has tested more than 50 stones already and many more stones/slurry combinations. I literally butcher that one, I smack it against Atomas to μchip it and then proceed to hone. And I repeat the process over and over again. I honed that razor nearly every day for those two months. I often apply more pressure than it is necessary. I have no clue how many hours it has spent on stones, but it's a lot. And there is still plenty of steel left. In regular conditions, that amount of wear would probably mean a few good decades of shaving and normal honing.

I get it, this is also a hobby for most of us and not just a chore, but really, getting so attached to a few μm of steel is too much.

Modern mass production razors do not offer the craftsmanship and pride that some vintage makers provided. It seems that today profit comes before quality. And quality control is not what it should be. I have paid a good price for a new Wacker and a new TI and they both needed much work.

So now I only buy vintage, save a lot of money and I get a better razor.
The 14er razor mentioned by the OP costs 180 EUR. I doubt there is any important profit in that, unless they have found a way to manufacture a razor from start to end in less than one hour while blanks, pinning, scales, assembly, grinders, electricity, packaging, storage, and other things cost all together less than 50 EUR. Then there are taxes and salaries (+ taxes again) to pay, factory costs (building, utilities, tools, insurace, etc), shipping, all which take up a big chunk from the final price. For the amount these razors sell for, I am not surprised they do not come with a good edge. I would rather have them skip cutting a bevel and save some time and increase the profit by 2-3 EUR so they do not get bankrupt soon. We only have 3 factories left after all, excluding the small makers (where the owner is also the worker). And even if they honed, what if they did a fantastic job honing on Arks while I like A, B or C? Then I would still have to hone it on A, B or C so I like that edge.

Then there are the master grinders. I think Dovo or Böker were calling the old grinders to come back to work even after their retirement, only because there was nobody new to learn how to grind razors and take over the jobs. It is nearly a forgotten craft. I think it was Böker who said a few years ago that for every ten new apprentices, only one of them has interest in learning how to grind razors. And from having interest to actually grind razors is another step.

Also, vintage razors also have/had a lot of issues.

Anyway guys, have a wonderful day and enjoy your razors and stones and Happy Thanksgiving, for those of you celebrating it! :)
 
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Yup, just hone it or have it honed. I have honed tons of new Dovos and Ti”s, almost all have issues that needed repair. All received a new bevel set and full progression.

On the other hand, all edge tools expect the buyer to hone/sharpen for their own use. Would not be the first razor that needed a few microns of steel removed to get to solid steel.

As said, don’t think you would have an issue selling it and recouping your investment.
 
Don't know where you guys buy razors from but for the past 10-12 years I've bought and honed a lot of new razors and none of them came with a chip/ding/etc in the edge. Not even Gold Dollars, although they had a carpton of other issues.
Wacker, TI, Dovo, Boker, etc... zero chipped edges.

Only one TI, and it wasn't really new, had a jacked up wedge. I bought it 2nd hand but the seller said he got it that way.
One Wusthoff Chef knife had a bit of a wave in the tip, the seller exchanged it immediately.
Can't think of anything else new that came in with an issue. I don't keep stuff that comes with damage without being compensated for it, and most of the time I just return it.
I just sent back 5lb of solder that was shipped to me on a broken spool. Seller knew the spool was damaged before listing it, but his position was 'you can fix it easily enough' and my position is that I know I can fix it it's just that I shouldn't have to. So now he gets to pay double shipping and I get to buy a different spool that isn't broken. Maybe next time he'll be transparent with his merchandise but most likely he'll just hope the buyer rolls over.
 
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